Monday, February 25, 2008


Glad I was behind the lense for this sequence - unknown paying the dues

A fun weekend on way or another

Saturday anticipation...

Saturday, they were there if you could hunt them down; easier said than doneSunday started off a manageable size, but it got bigger, that is a 10 foot board...

Windy enough to blow you off the waves, he did not get down the face of this one.But still, some were ridden

Monday, February 18, 2008


After almost a month of waiting...

Sunny, warm air [the water is still freezing], cold mornings with no wind, breezy but still fun in the afternoon.

Everyone is coming out of the water with sore arms from being out of shape from being out of the water for a month, most haven't surf since at least mid-january.

Took a couple of shots Sunday but not today.

Someone I know surfing in the shadows in a molten sea...

Thursday, February 14, 2008

The old and the new

Cedar meets carbon-fiber...

Courtesy of FCS fins and, of course, the guys at GrainSurfboards who built the beautiful surfboard.

the board in action;;;

You can see more of this board here

and the other highlights of their beautiful craftsmanship at

I just ordered the kit to build this 10 foot beauty...

Monday, February 11, 2008


Been dismal for weeks it seems, too big, too windy, or both.

Looks like a possibility for the weekend coming.

So another blast from the past...

Whale Beach, Sydney Australia sunrise 1976

From my days in Perth Western Australia. The Cottesloe Longboard Club folks are a fun crew. They celebrate their 10 th anniversary this year. I was one of the foundation members back in 1998.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

more blast from the past

Almost right, a 6'10" McCoy

Friday, February 1, 2008

The no-surf blues

No surf, so a few blasts from my past... Most are from the late 1970s to early 1980's taken by me, except for the ones of me [Duh !]

Central coast NSW with my Nikonos, great camera pity some @#$%^& stole it; with my car.

Me getting my tail handed to me on a plate. The white board just in front of the whitewater is mine. I think the red one is Ken Young's "Big Red" Cornish rounded-pintail . Taken by Sharon M [nee L] with a Nikon FM and 250 mm lense using Kodax 400 ISO Ektachrome slide film
Nikonos again. I took this never before published shot of Nat Young (about 1978) not doing anything to encourage the guy behind him to indulge in some surf rage [heavy irony]... Yeah right !
Dousty on his 6'8" [or so] Barry Kanaiapuni Lightning Bolt single fin in small glassy fun beachbreak.
Doin' the whole morning-of-the-earth thing NorthCoast NSW. Nikon FM 250 mm lense can't remember the film.
My sister's ex boyfriend at a very popular beach in Sydney, which can clearly get some quality waves from time to time.
Me on my last single fin shortboard for 25 years - a 6'1" Free Flight from Ballina NSW shaped by Gunther Rohn.